As ever at the vanguard of breaking news we deliver you a dramatic bulletin regarding rioting breaking out across London exactly one month ago. If England is a nation of shopkeepers, as its earlier aggressor - and subject of our best selling t-shirt - Napoleon sneered, then the country was at war with itself for a few nasty nights in August. The causes of the trouble are complex but what manifested was saddening to behold. Saddening and scary. At the far end of Clapham Road in Bedlam HQ we heard the hot pant of trouble as it encroached about us. One flashpoint where looting was out-of-hand nasty was a jog to our west in Clapham Junction while trouble to the south in Catford and Lewisham threw out cinders as close as the Camberwell and Walworth Roads. If you are unfamiliar with the geography of London let me tell you that was too close for comfort. Across the road from the Earl of Bedlam store is the Secret Police / Anti-Terrorist HQ that everyone knows about. One of our regular visitors from there is their man in IT who was put to checking Twitter and the rest to follow whatever "strategy" the looters had devised. He came over to say it would be safer if we closed up.
So we dressed up one of our mannequin ladies as the Home Guard in the Royal Navy band uniform coat and the other in the black tail coat with silver buttons and frogging that Aurélie and I had found at the South Bank Vintage Fair and left them in the window with warrior streaks on the faces and Age of Reason blood-splattered silk standards on their heads. Then we pulled the heavy-as-heck olive tree in its lead planter right behind the door, rolled down the shutter and retreated into the bunker with some bottles of Beaujolais, a rusty musket and some damp powder.
The next morning we found that not only had we escaped the attention of the aspirational looters but had actually inspired some pity - a few meagre sticks of furniture had been left on the shop front platform, kinda like the story of the burglar who surveys the household at his mercy only to tidy up, cook dinner and leave some money on the kitchen table.
Meanwhile, back down the Junction, people were gathering to show support for local traders, armed now with brooms and bin bags, to clean up and repair their district. If you recall from last month's post (actually, yikes, end of July's - August was a post-free zone, how utterly slack) (but entirely down to being worn-ragged busy, not lolling on some beach), wearing our Ocean Colour Screen hats, we had won a big print run of t-shirts for St. Peter's Church in Battersea. And here, with thanks to Mark Simpson at the church for the Daily Telegraph link, you see those same sunshine yellow shirts in that positive pro-active throng, behind the vicar as he addresses the film cameramen:
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/crime/8692457/London-riots-the-day-they-fought-back-with-brooms-in-streets-of-Nappy-Valley.html
Then an invading horde with a different battle in mind next descended upon us for the England vs. India Test Match at the Oval. We did a brisk trade in Panama hats, and here Mr Wesley models the "Gambler" style, straight outta Atlanta, GA.
The cricket fans chose themes for their costumes that seemed to the untrained eye somewhat random, but then I don't even understand the rules of the game let alone the code of dress.
August was always going to be quiet but the moody antics of the disaffected pretty much hobbled any casual opportunist shopping. Luckily for us we had a commission from a highly focussed local, a gentleman of New York City as distinguished as he is handsome, about to return there after thirteen years in London. He had acquired some tweeds on various forays into Scotland and asked if we could make him two jackets and a suit, fully bespoke, as his souvenir of these isles. Another gentleman, Rob Streeten, who works at Paramount Films, helped pay the bills - and paid us the highest compliment - by asking us to do his Big Day suit, for his wedding at the end of September. The neighbourhood also turned up trumps when Wesley from the Stockwell Job Centre brought in another intern for us, "Tiny" Tim, who is not only extremely tall but comes with two cohorts, Mary and Merinda, who come in every day as well - three helpers in one. There is a good deal of squealing and cigarette smoking and spontaneous close harmony singing that erupts but they have been invaluable to us while we work on our contribution to a forthcoming exhibition curated by Oval's own art world tottie, Paul Ryan:
http://www.paulryan.co.uk/
I originally knew Paul through my old pal Jeremy Deller, Turner Prize winner and much more importantly for his CV, Keith Moon-inspired drummer for our school-days band the "Avant Gardeners", for whom I sang, barefoot like Sandie Shaw. So Paul happens to live across from the EoB store and has followed our development with regular drop-ins. Now he has invited us to install four mannequins in the theme of "Expansive Mood". That is the term for the stage in the mental condition Bi-Polar of a grandiose state of mind where one senses no restrictions of reach. This is to be held at Mansion House, highly grandiose residence of the Lord Mayor of London - where, under broken shop glass, the streets are paved with gold. The exhibition runs over London Fashion Week weekend thus making us, the only sartorial participants, the Corporation of London's acknowledgement of that critical sector of the capital's commerce. We are delighted, honoured and touched by the generosity of Philip and Martin from Crescent Trading who have sponsored the fabric for the event - all 100% wool woven in England. From the official Press Release I quote:
"Expansive Mood, which forms part of the ‘Open House London’ weekend on 17 and 18
September, brings together artwork by up-and-coming sculptors, such as Nick
Bailey’s Magic Missile, and pieces from established
British artists, including Daniel Baker’s Ornament. Four mannequins by ‘Earl of
Bedlam’ will be included in the exhibition as a nod to London Fashion Week,
which takes place during the same weekend.
Barbara Bear, Lady Mayoress of the City
of London, who herself is a visual artist and sculptor, will host a reception
at The Mansion House for the artists, their tutors and potential patrons, on
Monday 19 September to congratulate them on their achievements.
Speaking before the event, Barbara Bear,
said:
◦
“Art features strongly at The
Mansion House and I am delighted that the Lord Mayor and I will use the House
to showcase the work of these artists to add a contemporary twist to our
traditional surroundings. As a sculptor myself, I am particularly looking
forward to meeting the artists to talk about the inspiration and techniques
behind their eye-catching creations and - whether they are established on the
art scene or just starting out in their careers - I hope they enjoy taking part
in the show.”
Paul Ryan, the artist who has curated Expansive Mood, said:
◦
“The theme of ‘Expansive
Mood’ explores themes of grandness, which is entirely appropriate to The
Mansion House. I wanted to include works that boldly embody, or
thoughtfully investigate, the type of psychological energy and super-confidence
that is valued by the City, and that is embodied in this type of building.”
Exhibitors include Daniel Baker, Sarah
Woodfine, Paul Coldwell, Elizabeth Wright, Nick Bailey, Russell Hill, Zuza
Mengham, Roxy Minter, Naomi Dines and Joe Sutherland. Visits
to The Mansion House during 'Open House London' weekend can be booked in
advance by writing to the City of London’s Public Relations Office at the
Guildhall to enter a draw for tickets – more details from www.londonopenhouse.org "
While thankfully our shop sustained no damage from the rioters then possibly some passing drunks had done for some more spindles on our platform balustrade - with its table it does tend to make a handy stop for them during nocturnal peregrinations. Fearful that someone could fall through it now I set our youthful inmates to making warning signs. Paul Ryan arrived for a Mansion House meeting but was cajoled into overseeing the art class. A Blue Peter generation baby like myself, he volunteered to fetch sticky-back plastic without a second's hesitation and here you witness his distinction prove no obstacle to offering hands-on help:
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| Paul Ryan applies the sticky back plastic to our young inmates' warning signage. "Tiny" has the nervous constitution of Vivienne Leigh, and as you can see, the tension of avoiding air bubbles was almost too much for him |
One upshot of the trouble was, I hope, that people learned how much they actually do love their own little corners of London and how it is important to cherish the pockets of independent commerce. Not saying that it's any less reprehensible when Foot Locker or Debenhams gets done, but there was a palpable surge of protective instinct towards those family businesses who offer an alternative to mass chain stores.
Eager to play our part in the repair process and support our local boozers and bands, last Friday we took our New York stockist and friend, Andrew Clancey, of http://www.anyoldiron.net/ down to the Queens Head on Stockwell Road. We went to see Rooster, the band fronted by the stunner of the South, Sara Stockbridge, the original and best face of Vivienne Westwood. And who walked in but the Queen of London herself, Dame Viv with hubbie Andreas! We had a totally tip top time, Rooster rocked, and much money was rung into the local till. We love South West London.
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| Sara on stage - this was only their third gig. You can see she has Debbie Harry cool locked down |
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| Vivienne Westwood and husband Andreas Kronthaler got on their bikes to support Rooster |
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| Dame Vivienne, Queen of Old London Town chatting to her muse in the break outside |
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Mr Clancey threw himself into the spirit of the evening, here wearing Mr Wesley's Lock & co. high top Coke (their name for a bowler hat as they invented it at the behest of gentleman farmer Mr Coke) that we found at the Southbank Vintage Fair
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Mr Clancey of course was our first US stockist. In the effort to win more overseas orders, we were extremely pleased to be visited by the most beautiful emissary of the UK Trade & Industry Commission, Nicola Briars-Coan. So on and up trade the good burghers of Bedlam!
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| Nicola from the UKTI with Mr Wesley |
